The opulence, seduction & power of the Art Deco diva
Good morning, sir, it's 7 o'clock!” We were awakened by the gentle voice of Leslie, our butler at St. Regis, who seemed to still be part of the previous night's dream, one you wouldn't want to end after a blissful slumber enhanced by a few glasses of Perrier-Jouët.
“Should I remind you again after 15 minutes or so?” he thoughtfully offered.
We told him it would not be necessary as we actually couldn't wait to start the day – it was the presentation of Louis Vuitton's pre-fall collection, something we couldn't wait to see especially after the exuberance of the ‘70s Chinoiserie spring-summer collection, which was still fresh in our minds.
Where would Marc Jacobs take us this time?
The venue for the presentation was The Museum of Contemporary Art in Singapore, an appropriate choice with modernist steel sculptures at the entrance, setting the tone for what was in store within. Dinesh Kandiah and Chloe Lee of Louis Vuitton Asia Pacific welcomed us and gave a brief introduction to the collection. What followed was a personalized guided tour by Vanessa Mayuga-Santos, PR manager for LV Philippines.
As we approached the first gallery, we espied vintage LV trunks by the wall and, beside them, a towering model in a wrap jersey dress with a Cubist print reminiscent of a Tamara de Lempicka painting. She looked like she was about to board the Orient Express, giving the trunks a second glance and wondering, “Did I bring everything I need?” With her hair in coiffed waves, plum lips and languorous eyes, she could indeed be Stefania Sandrelli come to life from the 1970 Bertolucci film The Conformist, one of the inspirations for the collection.
The scene was definitely redolent of the Art Deco period, when women embraced the modern era, wearing men's trousers behind the wheel of a Bugatti, gamine-like in tuxedos or in posh flapper dresses glistening with sequins over Fortuny pleats. But there was nothing retro or literal about this modernist, glamorous look, which later influenced a trend in the Seventies.
s Dinesh explained, “The style of the ‘20s and ‘30s, in fact, still provides subliminal inspiration for fashion today, with a look that is elegant and precious yet also practical; a quality favored in the Art Deco era, when a woman, armed with her liberated wardrobe, could set out to conquer the world while enjoying the luxuries of her newfound freedom.”
As we toured the galleries, other Art Deco divas appeared: in tweed, silk, sequins, and feathers — all exuding that aura of luxury, seduction and power. Colors were a muted palette of burgundy, navy, gray and mauve with highlights of red and orange. Coats play a key role in the look, as do the omnipresent trousers and silk twill.
Tweed Coats
The coats come in striped tweed in colors from the textile collages of the French-American artist Louise Bourgeois. The Bourgeois blue, partly inspired by the color of worker's overalls, was mixed with burgundy and gray stripes in a long coat that had appliquéd pockets. The top part and sleeves were in another stripe variation in mauve and midnight blue giving the appearance of a short shrug, elongating the silhouette further. It looked perfect with flaring bouclé tweed trousers where the blue takes on a mottled appearance. The same trousers went well with a double-breasted coat of the same fabric but in a lighter shade; a very practical, full coat with the cut and protective qualities of a man's coat. There was an interesting piece with two thicknesses of solid navy shearling and striped tweed with trumpet sleeves and a fur collar, masterfully reflecting the high standards of craftsmanship that the brand is known for while meeting the demands of modern life. An A-line coat in burgundy bonded wool had a quilted puffer top section that gave it a sporty appeal. Worn with wide blue chambray trousers, the look is very ‘20s, calling to mind the elegant women in Henri Lartigue's photographs.
Camisole Dresses
In addition to the wrap dress of silk jersey with a Cubist print evoking early Picasso and the palette of Dunand, there are camisole-like dresses that are deceptively simple, with unadorned necklines but knitted cashmere straps. One piece has three different computer-manipulated digital prints for the bust, the torso and the hem. A matching short-sleeved shirt can be worn over it for added warmth. “This also turns the outfit into the new suit dress,” according to Louis Vuitton merchandiser Capucine Peres, who says “it's a more relaxed option to its traditional counterpart.” For evening, the dress glams up with sequined straps catching the light and contrasting with the delicate Fortuny-pleated silk chiffon body. Other options include a coatdress, color-blocked in fuchsia and old rose with peacock blue trim; and a shirt dress in silk twill with the signature Cubist pattern.
Masculine Trousers
The stunning new trousers are generously cut, some with turn-ups, giving a masculine feel without looking too severe. There's a high-waisted tuxedo version with sequined strip that channels Marlene Dietrich and when paired with a jacket it cuts a very sleek suit. Slimmer trousers in the softest leather have the look of the fearless adventuress, ready to take on anything that comes her way.
Geometric Cuts
Aside from geometry in prints, there is also geometry in cuts like in a striped blouse and a fully sequined dress striped in navy, black and red that look like they were cut from single squares of fabric. They insouciantly hang off from one shoulder like deconstructed Breton tops.
Color Block Bags and the new Speedy
The statement bags for the season are color-blocked bags and clutches of dyed leathers and Monogram canvas, combining muted tones with smooth and grained leathers. The hand-held bag is a key look of the Art Deco era, figuring prominently in this collection. A must-have piece is the clutch in three-toned galuchat — a favorite material at that time — updated in an elongated oval shape with an LV clasp. There is also an exquisite one, hand-beaded in crystals by the venerable Parisian House of Lesage, as well as a precious, faceted minaudiere in tortoiseshell pattern with gold chain tassel. For the more active, contemporary lifestyle, totes come in larger sizes with straps that can be hooked over the shoulder.
Fans of the Speedy, the iconic bag first introduced in 1930 and quickly adopted as de rigueur for stylish women, now have a new piece to covet: The Bandouliere, featuring an adjustable and removable strap in natural cowhide leather. Available in four sizes, it offers greater flexibility between hand carry and shoulder carry.
Shoes for the Diva
There are a number of shoes to desire as well: high heeled lace-ups inspired by traditional men's footwear have hand-stitched details and heels luxuriously finished in lacquer. Elegant T-bar shoes have the most delicate straps embroidered with beads. And for the piece de résistance, wedges with a jeweled heel studded with 263 hand-placed crystals. They come in Art Deco jacquard and tweed that can be matched with garments of the same print for the ultimate in old-world polished styling.
Essential Jewelry and Accessories
Who says that's all for the diva? Life can be more fun: Fortuny pleated silk scarves in dégradé rose or navy with feather tassels will provide the final crucial stroke to make an outfit spectacular, as will a black feathered or burgundy mink headband, worn low on the forehead like a crown. Don the jeweled feathered earrings and the shagreen Charleston bracelets and you're all set to rule the evening. For protection with style, don't forget the essential long gloves in cashmere and leather and the Daisy cloche hats. For day, the Daisy comes with a cashmere knit top and a sunvisor brim. Up the glam factor with the large Anémone sunglasses in square frames with rounded corners and graduated lenses: a merging of the Art Deco look with the current ‘70s vibe.
Oh, in case you don't want to get too carried away into the wee hours of the morning with your swinging flapper lifestyle, there's the discreet Tambour Blush watch with the palest pink dial and alligator strap. Too subtle? Get the one pavéd with diamonds. Checking the time will never be as pleasurable.
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